Hands-On Review: F.P. Journe's Daring Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis – A Ruby-Studded Masterpiece That Challenges the Limits of Luxury Watchmaking
Imagine a timepiece so extravagant that it demands the sacrifice of priceless gemstones just to exist – that's the bold reality of F.P. Journe's latest creation, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis, adorned with the biggest baguette rubies ever incorporated into a watch. This isn't just jewelry on a wrist; it's a statement that pushes the boundaries of what high-end horology can achieve, and it's sure to ignite debates among collectors and enthusiasts alike. But here's where it gets controversial: is this level of opulence worth the ethical and environmental toll of destroying rare stones? Stick around, because we're about to unpack why this unique piece might just redefine extravagance in watchmaking.
Earlier this year, F.P. Journe revealed its most audacious high-jewelry watch to date: the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie (TVJ) Rubis. This stunning piece features a record-breaking array of large baguette-cut rubies, making it a standout in the world of gem-encrusted timepieces. Yet, what truly sets it apart is the monumental effort behind its creation – a full eight years spent gathering the perfect gemstones, culminating in the deliberate destruction of 61 carats of premium-quality rubies to craft this one-of-a-kind watch. For beginners wondering why that's such a big deal, think of it as refining raw gold into a jewelry masterpiece: you start with a lot more material than you end up with, and every cut could diminish its value if not done flawlessly.
Initial Impressions on the High-Jewelry Watch Trend
High-end jewelry watches aren't a novel concept; the 1980s and 1990s witnessed a surge in demand for intricate, gem-adorned complicated timepieces, particularly across Asia. To give you a tangible example, consider the matching sets that have fetched record prices at auctions like those handled by Phillips Hong Kong – pieces that blend horology with dazzling stones. Over the past decade, though, these watches have evolved from obscure niche items into a vital, enduring segment for numerous brands, proving resilient even during economic ups and downs.
Colored gemstones are also gaining traction as a sub-trend within this broader movement. Take Rolex's vibrant "Rainbow" Daytona, which has become one of the brand's most sought-after models, captivating buyers with its spectrum of hues. Similarly, Patek Philippe's 2022 release of the gem-encrusted Grandmaster Chime trio marked a significant milestone for Geneva's premier fine watchmakers, as they embellished their signature timepiece with diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires – a move that elevated the genre to new heights.
A classic example from the 1990s is a unique Piaget minute-repeating pocket watch, showcasing how gem-setting was once at the forefront of high horology.
But with the TVJ Rubis, F.P. Journe is clearly doing more than just riding the wave of popularity – this watch represents eight years of dedication and fits seamlessly into the brand's two-decade legacy of luxurious tourbillon jewelry pieces. And this is the part most people miss: the uncompromising commitment here isn't about chasing fleeting trends; it's about creating something timeless that defies convention.
The Extraordinary Effort in Gemstone Sourcing and Cutting
Crafting this watch meant meticulously cutting and recutting 86 carats of top-tier rubies down to a final 25 carats – a process that would be financially daunting for any manufacturer, especially an independent one like F.P. Journe. While the official price remains undisclosed, the brand seems convinced that this piece exceeds the value of its individual components, and from what I've seen, it's hard to argue otherwise. It's a reminder that true luxury often comes with extraordinary costs, both literal and figurative.
Delving Deeper into the Carat Count and Comparisons
The TVJ Rubis builds upon F.P. Journe's Tourbillon Vertical model, following in the footsteps of the 2005 Tourbillon Joaillerie (TJ), which was inspired by the Tourbillon Nouveau. Both the TVJ and TJ share the same total number of stones, but the TVJ's gems are notably larger and elongated to suit its more expansive 44mm case – a full 4mm taller and wider than the TJ's. Consequently, while the TJ featured around 13 carats of diamonds, the TVJ boasts an impressive 22.5 carats.
This isn't the TVJ's first foray into gem-encrusted designs; that honor belongs to the catalogued TVJ Diamants. Interestingly, rubies are about 1.14 times denser than diamonds, which might explain why the TVJ Rubis tips the scales at 25 carats compared to the Diamants, despite seemingly identical stone shapes and sizes.
Typically, gemstones in watches are inexpensive because they're minuscule – think the tiny "melee" diamonds under 0.02 carats that are bought in bulk as commodities. But the TVJ flips that script entirely, with an average weight of 0.242 carats per stone for diamonds and 0.269 for these rubies – colossal by industry norms.
To put this in perspective, Patek Philippe's diamond-studded Grandmaster Chime uses 30.16 carats of baguette diamonds, averaging just 0.077 carats each. Even more relatable, the 222 brilliant-cut diamonds on their 40mm Élégante model average a mere 0.007 carats. Yet, the diamond TVJ sells for a surprisingly accessible CHF 726,000 before taxes (roughly US$900,000) – raising eyebrows about value versus extravagance.
Exploring the Intricacies of Gemstone Cuts and Their Implications
Natural gemstones are usually shaped to maximize their worth, preserving as much of the original rough as possible while eliminating imperfections. In simple terms, the stone itself dictates the cut, guided by market preferences. For instance, the round brilliant cut maximizes the weight from octahedral diamond rough and remains the most versatile and tradeable form.
A prime example in watchmaking is the Graff Diamonds Hallucination from Baselworld 2014, featuring 110 carats of fancy colored diamonds cut to optimize each stone's potential value, with a jaw-dropping price of US$55 million.
But here's where it gets controversial: F.P. Journe chose to defy these norms, prioritizing their creative vision over stone and market dictates. This involved whittling down 86 carats of standard rubies to 25 carats of custom-fitted stones for the TVJ case – likely exceeding the gross weight needed for similar diamond work.
The bezel is channel-set with 40 baguette rubies, complemented by 16 on the lug hoods. The real showstoppers, however, are the 37 stones in the case band – proclaimed by F.P. Journe as the largest baguette-cut rubies ever in watchmaking.
Rubies naturally form as flat, elongated hexagonal prisms, so quality ones are often cut into ovals or cushions. To create these baguettes, F.P. Journe spent eight years amassing appropriately sized oval rubies, then recut them into baguettes. Matching the color of all 93 stones to appear identical to the naked eye added another layer of complexity.
Setting gems is notoriously tricky, as countless botched aftermarket jobs demonstrate. For optimal results, cutters and setters must collaborate closely, ideally with a case designed for stones like the TVJ's, which is 2mm wider than the standard Tourbillon Vertical. Each gem must be precisely cut; a slight miscalculation could leave ugly gaps or prevent fitting. And remember, once material is removed, it's gone forever.
The lug hoods feature an eye-catching fan of baguette rubies, blending artistry with precision.
The Challenge of the Ruby Dial
Even the dial is crafted from ruby, though not of gem quality – a material F.P. Journe calls "cœur de rubis," or "ruby heart," referring to red corundum formations within zoisite. This holds special significance for the brand, having capped their iconic Tourbillon Nouveau with a limited 20-piece run of ruby dials.
The main hurdle with ruby dials isn't scarcity or expense – the material is abundant and affordable – but its hardness and brittleness, which make it difficult to work with effectively.
Innovative Vertical Design and Movement Mechanics
The Tourbillon Vertical (TV) employs F.P. Journe's signature titanium blade-spring constant-force mechanism, first developed in 1983 at the request of Swiss collector Eugene Gschwind to rival George Daniels. This system also powers the Chronomètre Optimum and Astronomic Souveraine, two of the brand's most celebrated watches.
This constant-force device creates "natural" jumping seconds without extra mechanisms, offering aesthetic appeal and practical benefits – like easier accuracy checks against a reference time signal due to clearly defined seconds. However, note that jumping occurs only when the mainspring provides sufficient torque, guaranteed for the first 42 hours.
The TV differs from the Tourbillon Nouveau with its 90-degree oriented tourbillon, linked by a crown gear. The vertical balance wheel redefines positions: what are horizontal in most watches become vertical here, minimizing discrepancies between dial-up/down and crown-up/down orientations.
This setup maximizes the tourbillon's effectiveness, though ironically, watches typically perform best in horizontal positions where balance pivots have minimal friction and optimal amplitude.
Essential Details and Pricing
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis
Ref. TVJ
Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 13.76 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water Resistance: 30 m
Movement: Cal. 1519
Functions: Hours, minutes, natural jumping seconds, power reserve, one-second constant-force device, tourbillon
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power Reserve: 80 hours total, 42 hours chronometric
Strap: Crocodile with folding clasp adorned with 18 baguette-cut rubies (weight unspecified)
Limited Edition: Yes, unique piece
Availability: At F.P. Journe boutiques
Price: Upon application
For further details, check out Fpjourne.com.
What do you think – does the sheer extravagance of the TVJ Rubis justify the potential waste involved in cutting down such rare gems, or is this the pinnacle of artisanal indulgence? Could this approach set a new standard for high-jewelry watches, or does it risk alienating eco-conscious collectors? Share your thoughts in the comments – do you agree that true luxury demands sacrifice, or disagree that it's worth the environmental cost? Let's discuss!
